Mendoza: In search of Señor Hugo

After a 14-hour busride from Buenos Aires, we arrived in Mendoza and set up shop in Hostal International Mendoza, a cozy spot about 300m from the city center that provided us with a private 4-bed room, complete with hot shower and crappy fan (though it does oscillate, which prevents any tiffs between the four of us at night). We set out for a cheap bite, and found Mr. Dog (come for the weiners...stay for the buns), which offered Heart Attack Value Meals and 4 peso beers (Quilmes is the local flavor). With regards to this blog title, a number of independents sources had told us that we HAD TO find Sr. Hugo to rent bikes and see the vineyards in Mendoza. However, my guidebook mentioned nothing of the man, and our hostel had not heard of him either. Somewhat deflated, we opted to make our own bike tour, and hopped on local bus #10-171 to Coquimbito, wine country. We boarded the bus and paid our toll. Immediately afterwards, the bus driver, hidden behind his reflective Aviator sunglasses, offered me an orange flyer from his outstretched hand. On the top, in massive bold font, it said SEÑOR HUGO WINE TOURS. Do you believe in miracles? After 30 minutes, the conductor dropped us off in front of a collection of bicycles and a portly gentleman, who we could only assume - and we assumed correctly - to be Señor Hugo.

For 3 hours we biked around the valley and stopped at a number of vineyards, tasting a variety of Malbecs, Cabernets, and one dessert wine (which was gross). After an inebriated bikeride back to Sr Hugo´s (in which we passed by a police van transporting four Israeli travelers that were deemed too drunk to ride their bicycles - no joke), we were greeted with empanadas and unlimited free wine - uh oh.

Back in the city, we chowed on Sarmiento street and people-watched. An American couple in their sixties told us that they were high-school sweethearts: dating at age 12, married at 19, parents of four boys by 24. This marital and familial efficiency nearly shocked us into sobriety. We ordered another bottle of Malbec and pledged to stay young forever.